The Complete Guide to Sim Racing Pedals
A complete guide to sim racing pedals: potentiometer, load cell, hydraulic, and active - with budget-tier picks from Moza, Fanatec, Heusinkveld, and more.
Jack Stacy
1 min read · Jun 2026
Ask any hardcore sim racer and they'll most likely tell you the same thing: pedals are the single most important part of any setup.
Sim racing pedals have come a long way in the last 20 years. They started as an afterthought next to the steering wheel and wheelbase, but they've since evolved into some of the most complex and technologically advanced pieces of a sim racing rig. Today there are hundreds of pedals on the market, with options for every price point and preference.
This is a complete, comprehensive guide to sim racing pedals, whether you're getting into the hobby for the first time or looking to upgrade.
The brake pedal is 100% the separating factor between average and great pedals.
One important piece of context before we dive in: most of what we'll talk about here is the brake pedal. The brake pedal is 100% the separating factor between average and great pedals. Don't get me wrong, the throttle and clutch matter too. But if you buy a set with a quality brake pedal, the throttle and clutch (if included) will almost always reflect that same level of quality.
The Four Types of Sim Racing Pedals
To really understand sim racing pedals, there are a few key concepts to know. The best place to start is the four types of pedals you'll run into.
1. Potentiometer / Hall Effect Pedals
This pedal uses either a contact sensor (potentiometer) or a magnetic sensor (hall effect) to measure the distance the pedal has moved, then converts that into an input value. Push a potentiometer pedal 50% of the way down, and it registers 50% input.
This was the majority of what was available at the beginning of sim racing because it's the cheapest option. You still see this tech in most pedals today, although it's now usually paired with other technology we'll cover below.
2. Load Cell Pedals
Instead of measuring how far the pedal travels, a load cell measures the force applied to the pedal. Push a load cell pedal 50% of the way down and it doesn't register 50%, it registers how much force you're applying to get it there.
Load cell pedals vary in their configuration: how much force they can detect, and whether there's a stretch of potentiometer input before the load cell kicks in. They're often defined by the maximum capacity of the load cell sensor, a number usually shown in kilograms that represents the force needed to fully max out the sensor.
Here's how that translates to the real world:
| Vehicle type | Approximate peak brake force |
| Average street car | 15–30 kg |
| GT3 car | 60–80 kg |
| Formula 1 car | ~100 kg |
It's important to note that in a real car, G-force massively aids in pressing the pedal while stopping, something you don't get on a static rig.
To reach 150 kg of input force on the sim, you're essentially one-leg pressing a refrigerator.
So really, only 50–80 kg is needed for an accurate but sensible brake configuration. Keep that in mind as you dig into the specs of any pedal you're considering. That said, a higher capacity load cell typically means a higher quality one.
One key detail: the load cell isn't actually providing the resistance of the pedal. That's done by springs, rubber elastomers, or a combination of both. As things stand right now, most would agree that a load cell brake pedal is the bare minimum for a high quality sim racing experience.
3. Hydraulic Pedals
Hydraulic pedals use fluid dynamics, alongside springs and elastomers, to mimic the feel of real car brakes. The signature characteristic is often called the "squish-then-bite" progression: a soft initial travel that transitions into firm resistance. Because the pedal force is transmitted through fluid, it replicates the responsiveness and pressure build-up you feel in an actual car.
One very important thing to understand about load cell vs. hydraulic: hydraulic pedals still use load cells as the actual input sensor. The hydraulic system isn't replacing the sensor, it's just the feel mechanism sitting in front of it.
4. Active Pedals
Finally, the famous active pedal. An active pedal is basically the concept behind force feedback wheelbases, put into pedal form. Simucube announced the technology in 2022 and released it to the public in 2023. Since then, Chinese manufacturer Moza has released its own version, and I expect more companies to follow in the coming years.
The way it works is similar to what we've covered: a load cell reads the pressure input. But unlike the other pedals, active pedals also provide a configurable output. This is done via a high-power motor inside the pedal and a mechanism that converts the motor's rotational output into linear motion you can feel through the pedal.
That output can deliver detailed feedback while driving: road vibration, ABS, brake fade, and importantly, car-specific brake profiles. The feel of a brake pedal varies enormously depending on the car you're driving, and the active pedal can reproduce that car-specific feel.
So Which Pedal Should You Choose?
Now that we have a basic understanding of each type, how do you actually decide? There are more than 20 brands selling pedals, each with different variants across different budgets. I'm not here to push one specific set on you, the information below should give you the tools to decide what's right for your needs, with a few options to consider along the way.
Low Budget
There are a lot of choices here, but one major consideration is whether you're buying your pedals as part of a bundle. The Fanatec CSL Pedals and the Moza SRP2 pedals are some of the most popular beginner options.
Intermediate Budget
This is the realm of standalone pedal sets that aren't bundled in, but aren't quite top of the line either. The SRP2 pedals mentioned above are probably the lowest starting point here.
The next step up is the Moza CRP2, offering a 200 kg load cell and a great price-to-performance ratio at ~$400 (Current price listed below).
The Fanatec CSL Elite V2 and ClubSport V3 are both excellent options, with the CSL being the cheaper of the two at around $330. Both have a 90 kg load cell, but the ClubSport additionally offers vibration motors on the throttle and brake.
A few other options in this range:
Premium
Getting into premium territory, a must-mention is Heusinkveld. Heusinkveld pioneered the first load cell pedal back in 2005 and has stayed at the top of the line for pedal quality and performance ever since.
They currently offer two lines:
- Sprint: out-of-the-box brake feel customization
- Ultimate+: the first pedals in this guide to incorporate hydraulic dampening
Simagic's P2000 line is another great hydraulic option, coming in a little cheaper and featuring a functioning brake cylinder.
Active Pedals
Next we reach the realm of active pedals. The Moza mBooster is the cheapest option here, at ~$800 for just the brake or ~$1,000 with a throttle as well.
Finally, there's the Simucube Active Pedal: ~$1,800 for the Pro version, ~$2,500 for the Ultimate, and the price only goes up from there. The active pedal is the top of the line right now in terms of what it can offer. With nearly unlimited customization and feedback, there's nothing on the market that comes close.
Final Thoughts
As mentioned at the top, this isn't a comprehensive list of every pedal option, just some of the key choices to help you get started. There are hundreds of pedals on the market, but hopefully you now have the context to correctly evaluate the best set for your needs and budget.
If you want a full list of every pedal on the market, Ready Set Sim is a great place to start. It includes daily price updates and a PC Part Picker–style Sim Rig Builder, so you can build a whole sim racing setup from the ground up.